Submitted by Ananda Keator, Idaho State University
Abstract
To teach students to take measurements, create simple pattern pieces from those measurements, sew a hem stitch, sew a gathering stitch, and sew a fold-over waistband (beginner only).
Intermediate stitchers can learn a two-part waistband, bagged out bib and “shoulder straps.”
Intermediate and Beginner Directions are listed separately.
Length of Activity
Two hours for very experienced stitchers, one week for an average class. Two weeks for a large class or very new stitchers.
Area of Technical Theater
- Costume Technology
Description : Beginner Version
- Find a “willing” pet. If the students have access to their own pet or can get the measurements for a pet at their parents’ or guardians’ home, great. If they don’t have access to a pet they can use the measurements provided here or measure a stuffed animal.
- Tie a waist tie around the pet (hereafter referred to as “Jovi”, who is my model for this project, or “the model”). This is done so that we are measuring to and from a specific spot on Jovi.
3. Measure around this area (hereafter referred to as the waist).
4. Measure from waist to base of tail for length of “skirt” portion of the garment. (Please note, however cooperative your model, they may sit during this part.)
5. Do the math for the pattern pieces.
From these measurements, take the waist measurement (here 16) and divide it by ¾ and then multiply by 3. Or 3(3/4x). In Jovi’s case the formula looks like:
16 divided by ¾ = 12. 12 times 3 = 36
This is the width of the skirt portion of the garment. The length is taken from the waist to tail measurement. In this case 4 ½ inches. In this case, my skirt piece is 36 x 4.5. Making sure to leave adequate space for seam allowance, draw the rectangle on the wrong side of the fabric. Add 1 inch hem allowance to the sides, ½ inch seam allowance to the top and 1 ½ hem allowance to the bottom. Make a notch mark at the center top of the skirt portion.
6. The fold-over waistband is a standard 5 inches wide. The length is the full measurement of the waist plus 1 ½ inches for overlap. For Jovi, the waist band is 5 x 17 ½. Have the student draw out the waistband and add ½ inch seam allowance to the whole thing. Before cutting, make a notch at center and 2/8 of the waist measurement from the center.
7. Hem the sides of the skirt with a double ½ inch turn and the bottom with ½ followed by an inch turn up.
8. Run gather stitches along the top edge of the skirt.
9. With right sides together, match the center notches of skirt and waistband.
10. Pull gather stitches so that the sides of the skirt match the two outer notches.
11. Stitch together and press the seam allowance towards the inside of the waistband, being careful not to crush the gathers as much as possible.
12. Press the other side of the waistband in towards inside.
13. Stitch the short sides of the waistband and in close to the skirt, making sure not to catch the skirt in the seam.
14. Turn the waistband right side out, make sure your corners are nice and crisp! Iron the waistband.
15. Either stitch in the ditch or top stitch the free edge of the waistband down.
16. Add closure so that the finished waistband equals the waist measurement.
17. If your model is easily accessible, take a picture!
Description: Intermediate Version
1.Find a willing pet. If you have access to your own pet or can get the measurements for a pet at you parents’ or guardians’ home, great. If you don’t have access to a pet you can use the measurements provided here or measure a stuffed animal.
2. Tie a waist tie around the pet (hereafter referred to as “Jovi”, who is my model for this project, or “the model”). This is done so that we are measuring to and from a specific spot on Jovi.
3. Measure around this area (hereafter referred to as the waist)
4. Measure from waist to base of tail for length of “skirt” portion of the garment. (Please note, however cooperative your model, they may sit during this part.)
5. Ascertain where the bib will be and how long from the waist it will be.
6. Measure the width of the bib. For Jovi, this measurement is 3”
7. From the head-ward edge of the bib around the model’s shoulder to the waist tie. The final measurement here is 17”
8. Do the math for the pattern pieces
From these measurements, take the waist measurement (here 16) and divide it by ¾ and then multiply by 3. Or 3(3/4x). In Jovi’s case the formula looks like:
16 divided by ¾ = 12. 12 times 3 = 36
This is the width of the skirt portion of the garment. The length is taken from the waist to tail measurement. In this case 4 ½ inches. In this case, my skirt piece is 36 x 4.5. Making sure to leave adequate space for seam allowance, draw the rectangle on the wrong side of the fabric. Add 1 inch hem allowance to the sides, ½ inch seam allowance to the top and 1 ½ hem allowance to the bottom. Make a notch mark at the center top of the skirt portion.
9. Double layer waistband is standard 1 ½ inches wide. Length is full waist measurement plus 1 ½ inch for overlap. In this case, the waist band 1 ½ x 17 ½ inches. Leaving enough room for seam allowance, draw two rectangles. Mark a notch at center on one long side and notches indicating where the bib will go. In this case, 1 ½ inches to left and right of center. On the other long side of the waistband, mark center and 3/8 of waist measurement to the left and right of center. Add ½ inch seam allowance all around the two pieces.
10. Bib is made using measurements taken before, in this case, 4 x 5. Draw two rectangles, add ½ inch seam allowance all around.
11. Straps length is taken from measurements above. In this case, I decided that ¾ inch width would be appropriate, but use best judgement. Straps will be cut and turned, so the piece measurement will be the width doubled by the length. For Jovi, 1 ½ x 17 inches. Draw these two rectangles, add ½ inch seam allowance around all sides before cutting.
12. Stitch straps along one short side and the long side
l3. Trim seam allowance down to ¼ inch.
14. Turn and press
15. Pin open ends of straps on the top of the bib, right sides together.
16. Sandwich straps between bib pieces and sew up sides and bottom.
17. Turn and press.
18. This block contains unexpected or invalid content.ResolveConvert to HTML18. Hem sides of the skirt with a ½ inch double turn. Hem bottom with a ½ turn and then a 1 inch turn at bottom.
19.Run gathering stitches at the top of the skirt portion.
20. With right sides together, match center notches of skirt and waistband on the side with the notches farther apart.
21. Pull gathering stitches until sides of the skirt are even with the other two notches and stitch down.
22. Press seam allowance towards top of waistband, taking care not to crush the gathers.
23. With right sides together, pin bib to the same waistband on the other long side, matching sides of the bib to the notches.
24. Sandwich bib between two waistbands and sew short sides and bib long side. Sew in close to the skirt, if possible. Making sure not to catch the skirt in the seam.
25. Turn right side out and press.
26. Add closure on waistband so that the finished length is equal to the waist measurement.
27. Add snaps to ends of straps and waistband. They may cross or go straight as you wish.
28. If pet is accessible, take a picture!
Required Materials
- A cooperative pet (or standard measurements)
- Waist tie ribbon
- Measuring tape
- Clear plastic ruler
- Marking tools
- Roughly ½ to 1 ½ yard fabric of the student’s choice (lightweight cottons preferred)
- Notions; thread, hook and bar closure (snaps for intermediate option as well)
- Sewing machine
Evaluation
Students will be evaluated on how well they follow directions, evenness of gathers, regularity of hem widths, neatness of sewing, secureness of closures and, if possible, fit of garment. This last is only a vague thing. Does the skirt or pinafore close around the pet? Does the skirt portion not extend past the tail nor trail on the ground?